AFVOA Newletters of Year 2013

Page 29 of 61 partly domesticated. The second half of the journey on the 1st day was a little more difficult as we were moving up a gradient. The landscape around remained pretty much the same. Once in a while Mt. Kaliash got hidden from our view as we were moving from the South west face to the West face. Here on the way we came across a few ardent Tibetans devotees who were doing the parikrama prostrating themselves on the ground after every step. They wore full length hand gloves. Even though they were acclimatised to the altitude it must be an extremely difficult exercise needing stamina, strength and not the least, devotion. This trek to Dirapuk located at a height of 4860m and a distance of 10 km took about 6 hours and we reached the place around 4.30pm. One of our co-travellers suddenly became breathless here and had to be evacuated. From here, we could see the West face of Mt. Kailash. It looked so close that you felt as if if you could touch it, absolutely breathtaking. It appeared between two barren mountains, a massive edifice in ice, this the abode of Lord Shiva and his consort Parvathi. We were accommodated here in mud house rooms built like a barrack with eight beds in each room. As the evening wore it became chilly and all of us were only too keen to get in to the razais provided. I had mentioned earlier, it was here that the yatris were once again being counselled by the guide to go back the next day as the 2nd stage was dangerous and if any one falling ill would have to fend for himself as they, the guides would not be around to help us. Of course this was a ploy which worked well and many decided to go back the next day though they had paid almost Rs.20000/- for the horse and porter for the entire parikrama. There were no refunds for not completing the trek. 8 th Day to 12 th Day I am now resuming my travelogue after a pretty long gap and decided to condense and make this the last episode. The food though served normally piping hot did not suit me and I had already developed diarrhea, I was feeling quite ill by this time and surviving more on electrol, glucose, biscuits and fruits and therefore was being strongly dissuaded by some of my co-yatris not to proceed further but to return back after the first day. I was in a daze but was determined to complete the parikrama. I felt that without doing the parikrama of Mt. Kailash the pilgrimage would be incomplete. Something inexplicable pushed me to make the journey and everything was left to the Almighty. If one had to pass from this world, I thought there could be no better place. So early in the morning, after once again setting eyes on Mt.Kailash (the Tibetans call it Khang Rimpoche - Precious Jewel of Snow) and praying to Lord Shiva I embarked on this 2nd day of the parikarama from Drira Phuk (16039 ft). My porter was ready and waiting for me. It was already bright though the sun was not visible. Quite a few had already set off. Of course there were many other pilgrims besides us, every group distinguished by the colour of the jacket worn. Suffice it is to say that this is the most arduous part of the trek and the longest 22 km. Gasping for breath, stopping after every few steps, we moved forward. There was no path as such and one had to make way through the outcrop of boulders and loose stones. The ponies and yaks too had to negotiate this terrain with great difficulty. Already Mt. Kailash had disappeared from view. The Domla Pass, highest point on this trek is at a height of 18,460 ft (5630m). My buddie the porter was however always by my side to give a helping hand. As we were nearing Domla pass the gradient became sharper and the final 700m quite steep. Short of the top of the pass, those who had come on ponies also had to alight and make the rest of the trek on foot. The ponies would go back and again pick them up from where we were to halt for the night at Zuthulphuk before the final day of the trek. This was because of the steep gradient and near impossibility of the animals to negotiate the rocks and boulders. At the Domla pass no one was allowed to rest for more than a few minutes due to the rarefied air and lack of oxygen. From here one could see the other pilgrims both behind and ahead of you. Slowly one made